The Only Scottish Town in England

A Town Torn Between Two Nations

Berwick-upon-Tweed — a place of charm, battle, identity, and contradiction. Straddling the borderlands between England and Scotland, this town has witnessed more bloodshed, sieges, and shifting allegiances than almost any other in these isles.

So often fought over that it changed hands more than a dozen times, Berwick’s story is etched into every stone of its ancient defensive walls. Ordered by Queen Elizabeth I and Queen Mary, these walls weren’t just for show — they were to keep out the ferocious Scottish armies.

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More Scottish Than Scotland?

You’ll find clues to its Scottishness everywhere: surnames, architecture, language echoes — even the aura. “This town’s probably more Scottish than Ochtarmacty,” jokes our guide — and while we’re not quite sure where that is, we agree it sounds Scottish enough.

Despite being “officially” English since the 16th century, Berwick still feels like part of the Scottish cultural story. A jewel in the crown that was lost and has never quite felt at home since.

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Blood on the Walls: Berwick Castle’s Grim Past

The scant remains of Berwick Castle whisper of a darker history. Once a formidable border stronghold, it was demolished in 1850 to make way for the railway. A castle that had seen the banners of James the Good, The Black Douglas, and Robert the Bruce fly over its walls was sacrificed for trains.

And it gets worse.

In 1296, Edward I launched a brutal attack on Berwick. What followed can only be described as genocide — between 12,000 and 20,000 Scottish men, women, and children massacred. Yet tourist boards politely omit that part, focusing instead on his “castle-building prowess.”

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Wallace’s Gruesome Legacy

William Wallace — Scotland’s great freedom fighter — also met his fate in Berwick, or at least a part of him did. After his execution, a quarter of his body was sent to hang on Berwick’s walls as a warning to the remaining Scots. A macabre reminder of English dominance over a town that never quite surrendered its soul.

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Castle or Convenience?

And what of the town’s great fortress? Torn down to make way for a railway station. “We need to build a train line. Where? How about on top of an 800-year-old castle?” Berwick’s heritage was sacrificed in the name of modernity — a recurring theme in towns that straddle past and present.

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A Call to Reunite

The video ends with a heartfelt plea: “I want Berwick to be Scottish again. The problem is, I don’t know who to ask.” And that’s the crux of it — Berwick is English by law, but culturally… it’s more complicated.

Should Berwick come home to Scotland? Maybe. But for now, it remains suspended between two identities — a place rich in scars and stories.