Wars & Conflict · Selkirk

In the Footsteps of William Wallace: A Journey Through the Scottish Borders

Follow the footsteps of William Wallace through the castles, churches, caves, and battlefields of Southern Scotland and the Borders. From Ettrick Forest to St Mary’s Loch, the landscape still echoes with the legacy of Scotland’s Guardian.

Mark Nicol 23 Mar 2021 Selkirk 3 min read · written story

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Follow the footsteps of William Wallace through the castles, churches, caves, and battlefields of Southern Scotland and the Borders. From Ettrick Forest to St Mary’s Loch, the landscape still echoes with the legacy of Scotland’s Guardian. Load the film below, then press play to watch it here in the archive.

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Join me in my latest adventure as I scour the castles, caves, churches and battlefields of Southern Scotland tracing the steps of the great Scottish freedom fighter.      

Scotland remembers William Wallace as a towering figure of freedom—a warrior, a leader, a symbol of defiance. But while many imagine him fighting only in Stirling or Falkirk, the Scottish Borders hold their own chapters of his legendary life.

Through lost churches, haunted caves, battle-scarred hills, and whispered legends, this is a journey into the southern soul of Wallace’s Scotland.


A Hero Among Hills

High above the landscape, a statue of Wallace has stood watch since 1814—commemorating not just the man, but his presence in this land. From Ettrick Forest to Peeblesshire, Wallace found refuge, resistance, and battle in the Borderlands.

Despite the romantic image of him in the Highlands, much of his real story unfolded here, among the Southern Uplandsand old Roman roads.


The Forest Kirk: Guardian of Scotland

At the remote beauty of St. Mary’s Loch, near an overgrown graveyard, lies what many believe to be the true Forest Kirk—the place where Wallace was proclaimed Guardian of Scotland in 1297.

Forget Selkirk’s church in the town centre. This is solitude. This is symbolism. Surrounded by ash trees and weather-worn gravestones, it’s a place of myth and memory. The moment echoes still, across a loch where Wallace’s name was lifted above the people.


Castles and Trenches: Traces of War

All across the region, clues linger:

  • Wallace’s Putting Stone near Gala Hill

  • Ruins of Wallace’s Castle in Gameshope Valley

  • A mysterious earthwork known as Wallace’s Trench near Traquair

These aren’t just legends—they’re fragments of a real campaign, a real journey.


Wallace’s Cave: Hiding in the Wild

Northward, in the dark forested gorge of Roslin Glen, sits a near-mythic place: Wallace’s Cave.

Hidden in cliffside rock, the cave is hard to find and harder to reach—perfect for an outlaw. In 1303, as Wallace evaded capture, the cave likely served as a refuge before or after the Battle of Roslin, where Scots triumphed over the English. Wallace is rarely named in that battle, but it’s unthinkable he wasn’t there.

And in that cave—hollow, dark, echoing—the weight of his solitude is almost palpable.


The Forgotten Battle of Happrew

A year later, Wallace moved south again. Near the modern-day village of Happrew, a little-known battle took place in 1304. English troops, led by none other than Sir John Segrave, came to capture Wallace.

With them was Robert the Bruce, not yet king—raising even more questions about loyalty, destiny, and betrayal.

Wallace escaped, but the encounter would be one of his last in freedom.


A Legend Etched in Earth

Wallace’s story in the Borders isn’t carved in plaques or retold in museums. It’s etched in hillsides, whispered in caves, and named in old stones. His time here was one of desperation, strategy, and deep belief in Scottish freedom.

This was a William Wallace beyond the battlefield—a fugitive, a thinker, a ghost in the glens.


Follow the Trail

From St. Mary’s Kirk to Wallace’s Cave, from Happrew to Ettrick, this trail through Southern Scotland is a living memorial. It asks you to look closely, walk slowly, and listen to the land.

Because here, in the Scottish Borders, the story of Scotland’s greatest hero is still being told.

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