Peebles Castle and the Walled Town of Peebles

Introduction: A Stroll Through Time

I arrive in Peebles on a sunny afternoon, the River Tweed sparkling as it loops around this charming town. It’s hard to imagine at first glance that this peaceful place was once a strategic stronghold. Yet as I wander up the High Street towards the parish church, I’m literally walking in the footsteps of medieval burghers and knights. The Old Parish Church at the west end of High Street stands on Castle Hill – the very site where a royal castle once dominated the skyline. In my mind’s eye, I replace the church’s spire with the wooden palisades of a Norman motte-and-bailey fortress, and the centuries melt away. Peebles may be a quiet riverside town today, but its streets and stones whisper stories of kings, battles, and everyday medieval life. Let’s follow those whispers and explore Peebles Castle and the walled town of Peebles.

A Royal Burgh is Born: Castle, Church and King

Long before the castle’s construction, this area was already special. The Tweed Valley around Peebles has been settled for millennia – nearby Iron Age hill forts and even a Roman road at Lyne bear witness to ancient activity. By the early Middle Ages, the region was part of the Kingdom of Strathclyde and then came under Scottish rule in 1016 under Malcolm II. Peebles truly enters recorded history in the 12th century. King David I of Scotland (1124–1153), that great nation-builder, recognised the strategic importance of the Tweed/Eddleston junction and established Peebles as a royal burgh around 1152. Along with burgh status came the right to hold markets and fairs, fostering a thriving medieval town. In fact, such was Peebles’ early importance that King William the Lion decreed the kingdom’s chief courts of justice would be held annually either in Edinburgh or in Peebles – a remarkable honour that underlines how prominent this little town once was.

No royal burgh in those turbulent times would be complete without a stronghold. Sure enough, a castle was built here in the mid-12th century, during David’s reign. Peebles Castle was likely a classic motte-and-bailey design: a timber palisade atop a steep earth mound, with wooden buildings and perhaps a hall within an enclosure. Its position was no accident. The castle stood on a promontory at the confluence of the River Tweed and Eddleston Water, using these waterways as natural defences. High Street still leads directly to this site, which speaks to how the medieval town’s layout focused on the castle. The mound of Castle Hill, where I’m standing, is steep-sided and prominent – clearly an advantageous spot for controlling the river crossing. Indeed, the castle’s role was to guard a wooden bridge over the Tweed here and to watch over the fertile lands and roads of the Tweed Valley. It was “a situation of considerable strength,” as historians dryly note. Standing there, I imagine sentries gazing out from the ramparts, with the river below and dense forests and hills encircling the town in the distance.

In those early days, Peebles’ citizens built the institutions of a prosperous burgh: weekly markets were held in a long marketplace (today’s broad High Street), trade flourished, and churches arose to tend the souls of the living and the dead. In 1195, the parish church of St Andrew was founded by Bishop Jocelin of Glasgow, likely on the west side of town (the “Old Town” area). This grand church, richly endowed, became a focal point for worship. A fragment of it survives today as St Andrew’s Tower – a solitary grey ruin in a quiet graveyard, restored in 1883 by local benefactor William Chambers. Little would those first parishioners have known that their town was on the cusp of receiving an even more extraordinary spiritual treasure…

Miracle of the Cross: Folklore and Faith

One of Peebles’ most captivating legends – one that put this town on the medieval pilgrimage map – is the miracle of the Cross Kirk. According to a chronicle by John of Fordun, “Upon the 9th May 1261, a magnificent and venerable cross was found at Peblis, supposed to have been buried since the time of Maximian’s persecution in Britain around the year 296”. I get goosebumps imagining the scene: locals uncovering an ancient stone cross, hidden for a millennium, and then discovering a stone urn nearby with ashes and bones. People believed these were the remains of St. Nicholas, indicated by an inscription on the stone. Soon, reports of miracles at the discovery site began to spread. The devout (and opportunistic) King Alexander III himself got involved – on the advice of the Bishop of Glasgow, he funded a splendid church to be built on the spot in honour of the Holy Rood (the cross). Thus was born the Cross Church (or Cross Kirk), a substantial stone church 102 feet long with a convent attached. In effect, a small monastery grew around the holy relic. The Cross Kirk became a site of pilgrimage, drawing medieval faithful to Peebles to venerate the find.

Today I wander half a mile east from St Andrew’s Tower to visit the ruined Cross Kirk. Its weathered red stones sit in peaceful solitude, but they speak of a lively past. After its founding in the 1260s, Cross Kirk thrived. In 1474 it even became a Trinitarian friary, complete with cloister buildings and a tower added – friars in white robes would have walked these grounds. Remarkably, the Cross Kirk survived the wave of destruction that swept through during the Anglo-Scottish wars of the 1540s. When so many Border abbeys were torched, the Cross Kirk escaped major harm. It continued as a place of worship and, after the Protestant Reformation of 1560, the magistrates petitioned to make the Cross Kirk the new parish church. Their request was granted, meaning the old St Andrew’s Church (ruined in war) could be abandoned. For over two centuries, the people of Peebles prayed in the ancient Cross Kirk, keeping the old stories alive. Eventually, in 1784, a new parish church was built back in the town centre – on Castle Hill – and the Cross Kirk was left to decay. Much of its stone was even pillaged to build the new church. To stand among the fragmentary walls now, with only a gable and portions of the nave remaining, is a melancholic experience. Yet it’s also awe-inspiring: Historic Environment Scotland notes that despite its ruin, Cross Kirk remains “the best preserved urban friary in Scotland”. As I walk through the nave’s outline, I reflect on how a serendipitous discovery in 1261 wove faith and folklore into Peebles’ identity – an identity still celebrated every summer during the town’s Beltane Festival, which I’ll come to shortly.

Peebles Castle: Rise and Fall of a Royal Stronghold

Back on Castle Hill, I try to picture Peebles Castle as it stood in its heyday. In truth, we know frustratingly few details about the castle’s appearance – no contemporary illustrations survive. It was likely of modest size, perhaps not much bigger than the typical “pele” tower houses of its era. But it was important enough to host royal visitors occasionally. Medieval Scottish kings, including David I and his successors, would tour their realm, and Peebles Castle as a royal castle probably lodged the royal court from time to time. The castle’s timber and earth construction might have been upgraded to stone at some point (many 12th-century castles were later rebuilt in stone), but if so, it left scant trace.

The castle’s first century of existence was relatively peaceful. However, the late 1200s brought the Wars of Scottish Independence, and Peebles did not escape the turmoil. English forces under Kings Edward I and II pushed into the Scottish Borders; at one point the English occupied Peebles Castle during the early 14th-century campaigns. By 1306, Scotland’s King Robert the Bruce was systematically slighting (destroying) castles that could fall back into enemy hands – it’s possible Peebles’ castle was dismantled by the Scots themselves during this period. In any case, evidence suggests that by 1334 the castle had been abandoned or destroyed. In that year, the pretender Edward Balliol (allied with the English) issued grants of lands and strongholds to King Edward III; Balliol’s grant mentions “the town and county of Peebles” but pointedly omits any castle. Also telling is the disappearance of the castle’s chapel from records after 1327 – previously the chapel had received an annual stipend, which suddenly stopped. All signs indicate that Peebles Castle did not survive Scotland’s first War of Independence. The proud motte by the Tweed likely saw its wooden towers burned or torn down in those turbulent years.

Yet some believe the castle’s story didn’t quite end there. Peebleans of later centuries maintained that parts of the castle might have stood into the late medieval period. For instance, in 1403 the English army (under Henry IV’s command) raided across the Borders and reportedly “burned the town” of Peebles. Could any remaining bit of castle have been destroyed then? Possibly. Peebles was torched again in 1548 during the Rough Wooing wars, when an English force swept through following the Battle of Pinkie. Again, if any fragment of the old castle still clung on, that fiery visit would have finished it off. By local tradition, though, a ruin known as “the castle” might still have existed into the 17th century. There was a puzzling entry in the Earl of Tweeddale’s estate rental book of 1685 referencing “Peebles Castle,” which led some (like 19th-century historian William Chambers) to mistakenly think the medieval castle stood until then. We now know this was a confusion – that name was actually referring to Neidpath Castle, a tower house just outside Peebles that the Earl owned. In reality, the old motte on Castle Hill was likely barren by the 1600s, save perhaps some crumbling foundations. Towards the end of the 17th or start of the 18th century, any remaining masonry was viewed as convenient quarry stone. Locals carried off stones for reuse in other buildings. When a new jail was constructed north of the church in 1841, workmen did uncover “some of the foundations” of the castle – a final ghostly reminder hidden underground.

Today, no visible trace of Peebles Castle remains above ground. The flat summit of Castle Hill, roughly 70 by 130 feet in extent, gives little away of its former life. Only the imagination can rebuild the towers and timber halls that once crowned this mound. I pause by a plaque (one of several around town describing historical sites) which confirms that nothing tangible is left of the castle. Still, archaeology has yielded a few treasures: sherds of medieval pottery were found on the castle mound in the 1960s, now kept in a museum. Holding a piece of a 13th-century cooking pot discovered here would certainly make me feel connected to the castle’s former residents – maybe a cook stirring a stew for the garrison, unaware that centuries later their pot fragment would be the only witness to their presence! Standing here at Castle Hill, I reflect on the castle’s life cycle – from its hopeful rise under David I, through war and flame, to its stones being scattered in new buildings. Though the castle is gone, it laid the cornerstone (literally) for Peebles’ medieval story.

The Walled Town: Ports, Bastels and Burgess Pride

As the Middle Ages progressed, Peebles grew beyond its castle. The town was prospering from wool trading (the Tweed valley would later give its name to “tweed” cloth) and local markets. By the 15th century, Peebles had several hundred residents and an array of sturdy stone and timber buildings lining the High Street. Two bridges spanned the waters: a stone bridge over the Tweed was built around 1467 (replacing the old wooden one), and smaller bridges crossed the Eddleston. Even as the original castle fell into ruin, Peebles town itself got stronger defences – in the form of walls and fortified gates.

Interestingly, during the high medieval period Peebles did not have a full circuit of defensive walls. Unlike bigger Scottish burghs such as Edinburgh or Berwick, early Peebles relied on natural defences (rivers) and perhaps the stout fences of burgesses’ gardens to slow down attackers. This was usually enough in peaceful times. However, the 1500s brought anything but peaceful times! The Borders were in upheaval: cross-border raids, feuding clans, and sporadic English invasions made life hazardous. Early in 1570, with Scotland in a “most distracted condition” amidst civil strife, the townsfolk of Peebles decided to encircle their town with a proper defensive wall. I picture the sense of urgency back then – England’s forces had only recently withdrawn (after the 1540s wars), and locally the turmoil following Mary, Queen of Scots’ abdication was ongoing. So the burgh council took action to fortify Peebles.

The Town Wall of Peebles, completed in 1573–74, wasn’t a colossal medieval curtain wall like those around some cities. It was relatively low and thin – about 4 feet thick and originally around 13–14 feet high – but it was better than nothing. The wall formed an oval loop around what was then the “New Town” of Peebles (more on the New vs Old Town in a moment). From the riverbank near the West Port (a gate just under Castle Hill), the wall ran eastward along the north side of Tweed Green, the meadow by the river. Turning upward at the foot of Tweed Brae, it reached the East Port, then continued north. It enclosed some back gardens along the north side of town and bent westward to meet the North Port near the head of the High Street. From the North Port, the wall dropped south along a lane called Usher’s Wynd to the Eddleston Water, then followed the riverbank back towards the Tweed Bridge, and closed the loop at the West Port. In essence, the wall protected the town on its east, north, and west, while the River Tweed itself formed a moat-like defence on the south side. To visualise it: the High Street of Peebles runs along a ridge between the rivers, and this 16th-century wall encircled that ridge’s perimeter, linking the main road entrances (Eastgate, Northgate, West Port) into a defensible circuit.

The wall featured at least three main gateways or “ports.” At the west end, under Castle Hill, was the West Port guarding the road towards Edinburgh. On the east end of High Street was the East Port, beyond which lay the route to Galashiels and England. The North Port stood where the Northgate crossed the wall, protecting the approach from the north and the road to Neidpath. These ports were more than simple gaps; they were reinforced gatehouses or towers. In fact, Peebles had built a formidable East Port gatehouse even before the wall – a fortified barbican called the “New Wark” was erected here in 1488, complete with artillery emplacements on top. That early gate was blown up by the English in 1549 during another raid, but it must have been repaired and then later integrated into the town wall. The East Port ultimately stood until 1656, when it was finally demolished because it obstructed traffic (peace had rendered the old defensive gate more of a nuisance than a necessity by then). The West Port likely had a simpler arched gate that similarly met the wrecking ball once safer times arrived.

Walking through modern Peebles, I try to trace this old wall. Much of it is gone – “by about 1800 it had generally disappeared, leaving only a few fragments”. But remnants do survive, hiding in plain sight. On the north-eastern edge of the town centre, I find an intriguing piece of antiquity: a small circular tower built of grey rubble stone, half blanketed in ivy. This tower, only about 9 feet across inside, was once a corner bastion of the town wall. It even has two wide-mouthed cannon ports (early gun loops) – one still intact – peering out towards where enemies might approach. To each side of the tower extend short stretches of the old wall: one section running ~100 yards east from near Glencorse House to the tower, and another section 25 yards long heading south from the tower. Touching the rough stones, I can’t help but grin – here is tangible proof of Peebles’ days as a walled town. This segment is conveniently visible from the Eastgate Car Park (which, amusingly, was once the railway yard – even the railway has come and gone, but the medieval wall persists!). The Gazetteer for Scotland notes this isolated stretch dates from 1574 and formed part of the Eastgate/Northgate corner of the defences. Elsewhere, archaeologists have occasionally uncovered buried wall fragments – for example, a short piece was revealed behind a house on Usher’s Wynd in 1963. Most visitors would probably never notice these clues, but knowing where to look, I feel like I’m uncovering a secret.

The wall was never tested in any major siege, as far as records tell. Bastel houses likely provided equally important protection. These were fortified houses built by the richer townsfolk in the 16th century. Peebles, being so close to the lawless Border hills, had plenty of these stout residences. Typically two or three storeys tall with thick walls and iron yetts (grates) on the doors, bastel houses could serve as mini-fortresses during raids. A delightful (if smoky) defensive trick used in Peebles’ bastel-houses was noted by Chambers: they had thatched roofs which, in emergencies, could be torn off and set alight, then thrown down upon attackers from above! One can imagine some reiving band of marauders getting a fiery surprise as flaming thatch rained on their heads from the town windows. These fortified homes and the town wall together made Peebles a tough nut to crack for any small raiding party after 1570.

Even in the 17th and 18th centuries, Peebles took pride in its “walled town” status. The wall was kept in good repair at least into the early 1700s. Ultimately, as the town expanded, sections were dismantled or built over. But the legacy lives on in the street names: Eastgate, Northgate, Port Brae, and Bridgegate all recall the old gateways and wall lines. I make a point to walk along Eastgate and Northgate, imagining passing through archways that no longer exist. The fact that a good “portion of the old wall is at present standing” was already remarked upon in the 1850s, and thankfully that remains true today. For a history enthusiast like me, these fragments are pure joy – I see beyond the stones to picture town guards patrolling the ramparts and perhaps the burgh’s folk hero “John Morison, the souter (shoemaker) of Peebles” who led the town militia, if local lore is to be believed.

Old Town vs New Town: A Tale of Two Peebles

One thing that initially confused me was hearing locals refer to the “Old Town” and “New Town” of Peebles – not in the Edinburgh sense (Georgian New Town), but in a medieval sense. To clarify, Peebles’ Old Town is the area mostly on the west side of Eddleston Water, while the New Town is the main spine east of the Eddleston (the High Street/Eastgate ridge) which was walled in the 16th century. How did this come about?

Originally, the earliest settlement was indeed around the castle and just across the Eddleston on its western bank. In medieval times, the Old Town area was significant – it held the Church of St Andrew, and just to its east across the Eddleston was the Cross Kirk (slightly outside the early town). The Old Town would have been the locus of activity in the 12th–15th centuries, spreading around the river junction. However, the destructive events of the 1500s shifted the balance. When the English razed Peebles in 1548, they especially devastated the west side (the Old Town) including burning St Andrew’s Church to a shell. The populace, rebuilding in the later 1500s, chose to focus on the higher ground between the rivers – presumably it felt safer, being partially protected by water on two sides and now by walls on the perimeter. The result was a 16th-century “New Town” centred on High Street and Eastgate.

This new core was essentially a planned rebuild. Homes, mercantile booths, and civic buildings arose along the straight High Street. Peebles’ medieval urban layout is actually still discernible: a single main street with burgage plots stretching off it, and narrow “closes” or wynds (alleys) running off the High Street, just as described in historical accounts. As one 19th-century writer observed, “Modern Peebles evidently still preserves the basic form of the medieval town”. I appreciate this as I meander down the High Street – although today’s buildings are mostly 18th- and 19th-century constructions in stone, the plan of the street, with its spacious width and central market cross, harks back to the Renaissance era when the town was rebuilt. The mercat cross, by the way, still stands proudly (albeit moved to a new position on a traffic island). Its pillar dates to the 17th century, a symbol of the royal burgh’s trading rights – a reminder that Peebles’ economy, based on markets and wool trading, bounced back after the rough mid-16th century.

Meanwhile, the Old Town did not vanish. It remained inhabited, but it became somewhat secondary. The ruins of St Andrew’s Kirk in the Old Town became a poignant shell after 1548. Ultimately its tower was the only part left standing, which Dr. William Chambers restored much later. Other relics in the Old Town include the Chapel of the Holy Cross (distinct from Cross Kirk, this might refer to a Chapel of Virgin Mary by the castle mentioned in records) – now completely gone. The Old Town’s importance as the clergy’s quarter faded after the Reformation, since the new Parish Church was across the water. By the 18th–19th centuries, Peebles expanded even beyond, into what Chambers wryly called a “third town” on the south bank of the Tweed with modern villas. Today, visitors might not notice an obvious division between “old” and “new” parts – it’s all one pleasant town – but street names give clues (Old Town has street names like Biggiesknowe and Bridgegate, whereas New Town has High Street, Eastgate, Northgate). Understanding this evolution enriches my walk: I can stand on Tweed Bridge and imagine to my right (west) the medieval Old Town with its two ancient churches, and to my left (east) the fortified New Town of the 1500s.

Legends, Literature and Notable Locals

History isn’t just dry dates here in Peebles – it’s also the stuff of legend and literature. One delightful aspect of Peebles is how often it crops up in Scottish lore. In fact, a medieval Scots poem put this town on the literary map: “Peblis to the Play.” Written in the 15th century (often attributed to King James I of Scotland himself), this comic poem describes country folk flocking to Peebles for a fair – likely the Beltane Fair – and getting up to all sorts of merriment and mischief. It opens “At Beltane, when each body bounds to Peblis to the Play, to hear the singing and the sounds…” – conveying that Peebles was the place to be for the May Day celebrations. The poem paints a carnivalesque scene of dancing, drinking, courtship, and celebration in the “villagis green” of Peebles. I love that in the 1430s James I was essentially applauding Peebles’ festival in verse. It’s a reminder that medieval Peebles wasn’t just war and religion – it knew how to throw a party! This tradition is no mere memory; the Beltane Festival is still the highlight of the town’s calendar today, having been revived in 1897 and continued annually (with modern tweaks like a Beltane Queen). Every June, Peebles comes alive with a week-long festival that includes the Riding of the Marches (on horseback around the town’s boundaries, echoing the old practice of checking the burgh limits), parades, concerts, and the crowning of the Beltane Queen. It’s a direct link back to those medieval May Day revels. When I timed a visit to coincide with Beltane, I found the town bursting with pride and pageantry – banners flying, riders in traditional attire, and the entire community celebrating its heritage with a genuine warmth. If you ever visit Peebles in mid-June, don’t miss this colourful festival rooted in ancient Celtic tradition (Beltane marks the start of summer) – it’s history come alive in the streets!

Peebles also lays claim to the quirky tale of the “Three Priests of Peebles”, a set of comic medieval stories, and it has associations with folk heroes. The surrounding Tweeddale hills were part of the Ettrick Forest – a royal hunting forest – so one can imagine kings like James IV or James V coming to Peebles for hunts (James IV was an itinerant king who indeed visited many burghs; I like to think he enjoyed the hospitality of Peebles). In fact, throughout the centuries the monarchy were welcomed visitors to Peebles. A notable royal visit occurred in 1566 when Mary, Queen of Scots came to nearby Traquair House and likely passed through Peebles (local lore suggests she and her infant son James VI stayed a night here while on progress). Just a couple of years later, Mary’s downfall and civil war in Scotland would underscore why those town walls had been so necessary.

Not all famous connections are medieval, of course. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Peebles produced some notable figures who added to its story. William Chambers, born here in 1800, went on to co-found the famous W. & R. Chambers publishing firm and created the Chambers’s Encyclopaedia. He never forgot his hometown – he gifted Peebles the Chambers Institution, a handsome building on High Street which today houses the Tweeddale Museum & Gallery and a library. Chambers also took it upon himself to preserve local history (like restoring St Andrew’s tower) and recorded many of the traditions I’ve recounted. Another local luminary is John Buchan, the author of The Thirty-Nine Steps. Buchan wasn’t born here, but he spent teenage years in Peebles and later served as a local MP; the town honours him with the John Buchan Story museum, tucked in a close off the High Street. Wandering these streets, I recall that Buchan set parts of his fiction in the Border countryside – clearly the area’s charm left an impression on him.

And what of Neidpath Castle, that “new” castle which eclipsed the old Peebles Castle? It’s impossible to talk about Peebles’ heritage without mentioning Neidpath, perched just one mile west of town. After Peebles Castle fell into disuse in the 1300s, the powerful Fraser family (and later the Hays) built and expanded Neidpath as the local seat of power around the late 14th century. This rugged stone tower house still broods over the Tweed and is wonderfully intact – “one of the strongest fortresses in the district” by reputation. Over the years, Neidpath Castle played host to the likes of William Wallace, Mary Queen of Scots, King James VI, and even Oliver Cromwell. Unlike Peebles Castle, Neidpath was tested in battle (Cromwell’s cannons damaged it in 1650). Today it remains privately owned (by the Wemyss family) but you can book tours to see its great hall, dungeon, and the famous “Queen Mary’s Chamber” where Mary Stuart herself supposedly slept. I took a tour and felt chills seeing the arrow-slit windows and imagining Cromwell’s men camped across the river. Standing on Neidpath’s battlements, you get a majestic view down the Tweed towards Peebles – with “Auld Neidpath, grim and grey,” as a local poem goes, “sentinel our royal toun”. It’s easy to see why even after Peebles Castle was gone, people would refer to Neidpath as “the Castle of Peebles.” If you love castles, Neidpath is an absolute must-visit addition to your Peebles itinerary.

Visiting Peebles Today: Tips for Time-Travellers

Peebles welcomes today’s travellers with open arms, much as it did merchants and monarchs in centuries past. The difference is you won’t need to worry about border reivers on your journey here – just enjoy the scenery! The town lies about 23 miles south of Edinburgh, a pleasant hour’s drive or bus ride through rolling hills. As you approach, you’ll notice how Peebles nestles on a neck of land between the Tweed and a tributary – that geography dictated its history and is key to exploring it. Here are some tips to make the most of a historical visit to Peebles:

• Castle Hill & Old Parish Church: Start at the west end of High Street, where the Parish Church of Peebles (St Andrew’s) stands atop Castle Hill. Though the current building is a Victorian Gothic structure from 1887, it sits on the exact site of Peebles Castle. Wander into the churchyard; a plaque or two detail the castle’s story. Even without ruins, it’s special to stand where King David’s fort once stood. From the nearby Tweed Bridge (built on medieval foundations), you can look up and see the church dominating the riverside – essentially the same commanding position the castle held. It’s a great photo angle.

• High Street & Eastgate: Stroll along the High Street, imagining the old marketplace bustle. At the Mercat Cross(where High Street meets Eastgate) – you can’t miss its stone shaft topped with a unicorn – pause to consider that this spot has been the town’s heart since the 1500s. On the south side of the street, peek into the Chambers Institution Courtyard, where the Tweeddale Museum offers free exhibits on local history (you might find archeological finds like those castle pottery sherds). This courtyard also leads to the John Buchan Story museum – a nice literary diversion. I stopped by the Tontine Hotel across the road, which itself is historic (dating to 1808, funded by an 18th-century investment scheme). Even just having a coffee in its lounge, you soak in the atmosphere of old Peebles.

• Town Wall Remains: To get up close with the town’s defences, head to the east end of town behind the Eastgate. The Eastgate Car Park (yes, it’s unusual to direct you to a car park, but trust me) has a section of the medieval town wall forming its boundary. Here you’ll find the round tower with cannon port that I described earlier. It’s an Instagram-worthy spot for history buffs – I took a selfie with the 16th-century gunloop behind me! There may be an information board here explaining the wall’s extent and history. Try to walk a bit of the perimeter: from this tower you can walk south down School Brae to Tweed Green, essentially tracing the wall’s former line to the river, and then loop back along the Tweed to where the West Port once stood (near the modern road up to Castle Hill).

• Cross Kirk Ruins: A short walk (about 10 minutes) north-east from the High Street along Cross Road brings you to the tranquil ruins of Cross Kirk. Entry is free; check Historic Environment Scotland for opening hours (generally daylight hours, with some restrictions in winter). I found it peaceful to wander among what’s left of the nave and chancel, reading the onsite signage about the miraculous cross and the Trinitarian friars. It’s a green, contemplative site – and you might have it all to yourself except for occasional dog-walkers. Notably, you’ll see a grassy mound on the north side of the kirk: this is the burial place of the medieval Earls of March. On the south side, a sectioned-off area was the burying ground of the local Hay family (of Neidpath). These small details really made me feel connected to the layers of history here.

• St Andrew’s Tower: In the old Caledonian Road graveyard west of Eddleston Water stands the lonely St Andrew’s Tower, the last remnant of the 1190s parish church. It’s locked but you can admire it through the fence – the fact it’s still standing at all after being burnt in 1548 is incredible. I noticed a plaque crediting William Chambers for restoring it. His grave is actually under its shadow. This site, combined with Cross Kirk, gives a vivid sense of how two medieval churches once served different parts of Peebles.

• Neidpath Castle: If you have time (and I strongly recommend making time), either walk or drive the mile west along the river to Neidpath Castle. The walk along the Tweed is gorgeous, and after about 20–30 minutes you’ll see Neidpath’s thick battlements rising above the trees. The castle is generally open by appointment for tours – you can call or email ahead to book a guided visit inside. Even if you don’t go in, the exterior view is worth it. There’s a layby where you can view the castle across a deep bend in the Tweed; from here Neidpath looks like something from a fairy tale, perched on its crag with the river below. Going inside, I was thrilled to climb the spiral stairs and peer out arrow slits at Peebles in the distance. The guides share juicy stories of its residents and famous visitors. As a bonus, just past the castle there’s an old railway tunnel and a scenic path – part of a longer trail if you fancy more walking.

• Events & Festivals: Consider timing a visit during one of Peebles’ festivals. The Beltane Festival (usually the third week of June) is a highlight, complete with horse processions, a parade, and the crowning of the Beltane Queen. It’s a joyous way to see local culture in action – truly living history, since the traditions draw directly from the past. Other annual events include an Arts Festival and the Tweed Valley Forest Festival, showcasing the area’s artistic and natural heritage. If you’re a cyclist or walker, the surrounding hills offer trails with historic points (I stumbled on Iron Age forts on a hike, and the views of the valley are to die for).

• Visitor Amenities: Peebles today is well-equipped for tourists. Despite its modest size, it boasts lovely independent shops, cafes, and pubs (the town has even been lauded as one of Scotland’s top independent retailing towns). After a day of exploring history, you can reward yourself with local ice cream or enjoy a pint in a cosy pub that might very well date back a couple of hundred years. For instance, the Bridge Inn near Tweed Bridge is a traditional inn that offers hearty meals – sitting there, I imagined weary medieval travellers stopping by after crossing into town. Modern facilities like the Eastgate Theatre host events if you fancy some evening entertainment. And if you stay overnight, there are several hotels and B&Bs; the Tontine Hotel I mentioned is central and historic, while Cringletie House and others just outside town offer country manor elegance.

As I wrap up my visit, I truly feel that Peebles is a town where past and present walk hand in hand. It’s big enough to have all necessities, yet small enough that history isn’t buried – it’s right there in the street names, the ruins, the yearly rituals, and the pride of the locals. Peebles’ motto is “Contra Nando Incrementum” – there is growth by swimming against the stream – a nod to the salmon battling upstream in the Tweed and perhaps to the town’s own resilience through adversity. After exploring the castle site and the old walls, witnessing the preserved relics and the revived festivals, I appreciate how apt that motto is. Peebles has indeed grown and thrived against the stream of time, holding on to its heritage while moving forward.