Prehistory & Ancient Borders · The Borderlands

Torwoodlee Broch: Prehistoric Sunrise 2019

We welcomed the first sunrise of 2019 at the ancient site of Torwoodlee Broch in the Scottish Borders — a place where Iron Age stone meets spiritual stillness. As the light broke over the hills, it felt like stepping between worlds.

Mark Nicol 1 Jan 2019 The Borderlands 4 min read · written story

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We welcomed the first sunrise of 2019 at the ancient site of Torwoodlee Broch in the Scottish Borders — a place where Iron Age stone meets spiritual stillness. As the light broke over the hills, it felt like stepping between worlds. Load the film below, then press play to watch it here in the archive.

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I visit a prehistoric site to watch the first sunrise of 2019 in the Scottish Borders

A New Year’s dawn at an ancient stronghold in the Scottish Borders


High above Galashiels, where the soft Borders hills roll into forested ridges and ancient secrets lie just beneath the heather, stands a stone circle older than memory. This is Torwoodlee Broch—a rare Iron Age fortress deep in the heart of the Scottish Borders.

And on the very first morning of 2019, as a new year stretched its fingers over the horizon, we stood among those ancient stones, waiting to welcome the sunrise—just as people may have done there 2,000 years ago.


What Is a Broch?

Brochs are unique Scottish structures—round stone towers built during the Iron Age (roughly 200 BCE to 100 CE). You’ll find most of them scattered across northern and western Scotland—Orkney, Caithness, and the Hebrides.

But Torwoodlee is different. This broch sits far to the south, in the Selgovae heartland, surrounded by Roman roads, Border forests, and traces of later medieval strongholds. It’s a rarity—a southern broch—and its story is bound up with Rome, resistance, and remembrance.

Constructed by local tribes, likely for elite families, brochs served as:

  • Defensive homes in volatile times

  • Status symbols, projecting power and wealth

  • Spiritual centres, possibly aligned with celestial or seasonal events

Torwoodlee, however, had a short-lived life. It was destroyed, possibly by the Romans, not long after it was built—perhaps during Governor Agricola’s campaigns in the late 1st century CE.

But its spirit has never left.


The First Sunrise of 2019

We arrived in the cold and dark, just before dawn on January 1st, 2019.

The sky was heavy with mist. The wind spoke softly through the trees. And then—over the hills to the east—the first rays of sun broke the horizon, spilling light across the frost-covered stones of the broch.

It was a quiet, powerful moment.

A new year. A timeless place. A shared silence among strangers and stones.

And as the light filled the ancient ring, we couldn’t help but wonder—had Iron Age people once gathered here to witness this same sunrise? Was Torwoodlee built, at least in part, to align with the movement of the sun and seasons?

Some believe so. And even if not by design, it certainly feels like a place in tune with the sky.


From Iron Age Fortress to “The Eye Castle”

Torwoodlee wasn’t just used once.

Over centuries, it was reused, rebuilt, and remembered. Stones from the broch were scavenged to build nearby farm walls. Medieval locals referred to it as “The Eye Castle”—likely because of its circular shape and raised centre, like an eye in the landscape.

Even in decay, people felt its presence. It was always something more than a ruin.


What You Can Still See Today

Despite time, stone robbing, and erosion, Torwoodlee still offers much to the curious visitor:

  • Massive earthen ramparts surrounding the inner circle

  • Circular stone foundations marking the core structure of the broch

  • Evidence of Roman interaction, including pottery found during excavations

  • A commanding 360° view over the surrounding valleys—a watchtower for both defence and ritual

It’s also just a short walk away from Torwoodlee Tower, a 16th-century stronghold tied to the Pringle family—a later echo of the defensive spirit that always lived in this land.


A Thin Place

In Celtic spirituality, some places are called “thin places”—where the veil between this world and the next feels almost transparent. Torwoodlee Broch is one of them.

On that New Year’s morning, as sunlight touched ancient stone, it felt like we were standing on the seam of time itself. Past and present. Earth and sky. Shadow and flame.

It wasn’t just a photo opportunity.

It was a reconnection.


Visiting Torwoodlee Broch

Location: Near Galashiels, Scottish Borders
Route: Access via quiet woodland trails, with signposts from Torwoodlee Estate
Best Time to Visit: Sunrise or sunset, when the shadows stretch and the stones glow
Nearby: Torwoodlee Tower, Gala Water, and the Roman fort at Trimontium (Melrose)

Be respectful—Torwoodlee is an ancient site and a scheduled monument. But take your time. Let the land tell its story.


Why It Matters

Torwoodlee reminds us that the Borders weren’t just shaped by castles and clans, but by people whose names we’ll never know—who tracked the stars, tended fires, and built circles of stone in places that still feel sacred.

On January 1st, 2019, we followed in their footsteps. And as the first sunrise of the year rose above the horizon, it felt like they were still watching, just beyond the veil.

So next time the new year dawns, maybe don’t reach for your phone.

Head for the hills instead.
And let the sun rise over your soul.

Featured image: Torwoodlee Broch: Prehistoric Sunrise 2019

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