East Lothian in Southern Scotland: A Journey Through Ancient Hill Forts, WW2 Submarine Wrecks, and the Notorious Scottish Witch Hunts

Ancient Hill Forts: Echoes of Early Scotland

East Lothian boasts a wealth of ancient archaeological sites, with its hill forts offering a glimpse into Scotland’s prehistory. These iron-age strongholds, built between 700 BC and 100 AD, were constructed on prominent hills for both defensive and symbolic purposes.

Traprain Law: Perhaps the most prominent of these is Traprain Law, once a major centre of the Votadini tribe. From the summit, commanding views stretch across East Lothian, making it the perfect site for defence and control. Notably, a Roman silver hoard was discovered here, suggesting deep interactions with Roman forces.

Other sites like Binning Wood Fort and Drem Fort also offer a look into the tribal past of Scotland, where alliances and enmities shaped the landscape long before castles rose along the coast.

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WW2 Submarine Wrecks: Tragedy Beneath the Waves

One of the most unusual historical features of East Lothian lies not on land, but beneath the sea. Hidden along the vast tidal flats are the rusted remnants of WW2 submarines used for training and clandestine missions.

At low tide, you can walk out to where the wrecks lie partially submerged, silent relics of a time when the North Sea was a front line in a global conflict. These were British midget submarines, likely used to train for stealth attacks against enemy fleets hidden in Norwegian fjords.

Five-man crews once braved freezing waters and extreme pressure in these tiny vessels. Today, the sight of their remains is both eerie and humbling—a reminder of the daring and danger that defined wartime innovation.

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The Witch Hunts: East Lothian’s Darkest Chapter

Few episodes in Scottish history are as chilling as the witch hunts of the 16th and 17th centuries. In East Lothian, the hysteria reached a fever pitch, fueled by royal paranoia and religious fanaticism.

North Berwick was the scene of the infamous 1590 witch trials, where over 200 people were accused of raising storms to kill King James VI during his return from Norway. One of the accused, Agnes Sampson, was tortured and killed in nearby Haddington, setting off a wave of trials throughout the region.

Further inland, Spott is claimed to be the site of Scotland’s last recorded witch burning in 1690. A solemn stone marks this tragic event, paying tribute to the countless women executed simply for being different, outspoken, or misunderstood.

These grim markers serve as vital reminders of the perils of superstition and the consequences of mass fear.

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Modern Exploration: Discover East Lothian Today

East Lothian is a living museum. Whether you’re hiking to Traprain Law, walking the beaches near the submarine wrecks, or tracing the footsteps of the accused witches, there’s something in the air—a lingering echo of all who came before.

Places to visit:

• Traprain Law (for Iron Age ramparts and wild ponies)

• North Berwick Law

• WW2 submarine wrecks near Belhaven Bay

• Spott Witch Memorial

• Tantallon Castle

• Haddington’s Witch Stone

Walks & Wildlife: Explore the John Muir Way, visit seabird colonies, and embrace East Lothian’s diverse terrain.

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Conclusion: A Tapestry of Time

East Lothian is more than just scenic beauty—it’s a land woven with stories. From prehistoric power struggles to WW2 training grounds and the terror of witch hunts, the county invites visitors to look beyond the surface.

Here, the past isn’t buried—it’s waiting to be discovered. So pack your boots, bring your curiosity, and come see what East Lothian has to reveal.